92 Black GT

Nice :laugh:
Lots of work still.
Indeed those AN fittings are expensive.
But they take the abuse of heat and pressure ;-)
Good luck finishing your project.
 
I was able to use one of the 4 AN hoses that came with the turbo for the oil feed hose, and this freed up a 4 AN 90 degree fitting. The hose was nylon oil rated with stainless braid which is way more flexible and it fit so much better for the oil feed then the 90 and 45 degree p.t.f.e. hose that I was using. I mangled the 45 fitting when I was playing around with the hose hook up but the 90 will work for one side of the water hook up for the wastegate. I have plenty of 4 AN hose on hand and all I need now is a straight 4 AN and a new coupler (cheaper). I was also able to use another 4 AN hose that came with the turbo for the other wastegate h2o line. I ordered up on Ebay two 6 AN to 6 AN to 4AN T fittings (decent price; quality is the same for these). The Y fitting that I was going to use coming out of the thermostat housing wouldn't fit which I discovered after going to test fit the radiator shroud. I'm glad I wait on the orders for this stuff until after the test fit. I will need three 6 AN straight fittings to connect to T fittings; I have one 6 AN on hand. This all saved a quite a bit of money.

I'm still playing around with the oil feed hoses to the remote mount. Today I'll take the hoses off and connect a straight on one side and see where I can get it to route safely to the other end with the limited space.
 
Like always I have been detoured by everything under the sun. Project is creeping to a close. I will prime the oil system today, and hopefully go for a test drive. I'll try to take some new pictures today if I get a chance.
 
I completed the first few test drives and had her back up and running yesterday. The ball bearing turbo sounds like a small jet engine with the larger air intake. I will have to tweak the idle and the blow off valve a little but she ran pretty sweat! The Tial external wastegate with an 8 lbs spring holds her at 10 psi with the boost controller all the way turned down. I brought her up a few clicks which holds her a 12 psi. The internal wastegate in the the old turbo never held her solid and I was always fighting boost creep. The wideband even with the new sensor still wasn't registering. I will try recalibrating one more time. If that doesn't work I will send in for another sensor. If that doesn't work I will try another wideband company altogether. The Centerforce old clutch is rated up to 190 hp and it wasn't holding with the other turbo and now it really won't hold if I don't baby the turbo with the accelerator. The other clutch I have on hand is rated to I believe 280 hp but I cannot have my car down at the moment since it is my only vehicle. My white GT and the Ford Probe GT are both down. I have to have a reliable backup and I started setting up a purchase for a T3 turbo.
 
I sorted a few loose ends today. My new Race Sport lifetime ballast HID were having issues with the high beams not working with the bi-xenon bulbs. The harness came plugged in the wrong way and a little swapping around of the pins and now they're functioning correctly. I fixed an annoying misting of the oil cooler by cleaning down the viton o-rings and resealing. I plastic welded the front bumper top mount. I will have to grind it down to make it look more aesthetically pleasing.

I still can not figure out the o2 wideband sensor. I'm going to send the sensor in for a replacement, but after that I'm just going to try a new company. It is an Innovate Motorsport LC-2 wideband and it only worked for the first six months. I have tried a few different sensor replacements which is what the fault code is reading to no results. I absolutely hate that the wiring they use is ridiculously small and fragile.
 
i have had the same issues with many hid / led kits, having to swap pins in the sockets to get the headlamps to work properly with the wiring on these cars. i also do the relay mod while i am in there doing the headlamps. less electrical stress on the small oem wiring.....
 
blueturbofly said:
i have had the same issues with many hid / led kits, having to swap pins in the sockets to get the headlamps to work properly with the wiring on these cars. i also do the relay mod while i am in there doing the headlamps. less electrical stress on the small oem wiring.....
Click to expand...

It is only three wires, and I know that of the car using that plug they are not setting for our cars. I have used a starter relay in the past for another car for same reason, but the wiring for this one is in great shape.

So far I am happy with this new Race Sport Bi-Xenon Gen 6 Canbus HID slim ballast 9004B-5K-Gen6 system. It has a lot of stuff (the canbus) that we don't need for our cars electrical, but the ballast are life time warranties which is the thing that goes out most frequently for me with the HID systems. Part of the wiring loom has a better sheath, but the connectors appear to be the same as a less expensive lower generation, or other company. I tried another company first and they flickered like crazy. They were 1/2 the price go figure.

The 5000k is just right in my opinion where it is not as cold white light that blinds everyone but whiter than a standard halogen bulb. They certainly put out more lumens

One thing I want to point out on ours cars is that if you are switching to a HID is that the flange for the bulb adapter for most 9004 bulbs is made too thick. I had to grind off a 1/16" on the adapter to get our bulb lock downs to fit correctly ( they won't turn all the way into the locked positioned). Compare a standard flange on a 9004 halogen bulb to what ever you use and that difference will give you the amount that you need to remove.
 
yes, the turn lock ring that holds them in....for some of my hid set-ups i have had to enlarge the inside of the ring itself, for the bulb to fit thru....same kits, different cars....
then had a heck of a time finding new bulb retainer rings for my '87- brittle due to age- snapped in half when trying to remove them.

i use either 5000or 6000k for heat temp/ brightness....and a good polish on the composites, or swift glass lens (that you are so afraid of getting rock smashed :-o !!!!!!!)
 
She has been down all week. The 4 AN Silicone Intake fitting sprung a leak (goes to the wastegate) and the wastegate bolts backed out again. There must be a lot of vibration and just the right weight force causing those bolts to back out. I picked up some different hardware from bolt depot. I'm hoping I can get some lock nuts on the other end of the wastegate bolts to effectively clamp it together. I bought a couple new 38 mm wastegate gaskets and new 4 AN 19" assembled 90 degree to straight hose to replace the water hose from Speedway Motors. I also purchased parts for solid (heim free) rear tie rod set with poly bushings. The water hose and gasket should only take me less than an hour, but I still didn't get to it this weekend after getting the parts on Friday.

I might see if I can weld a support arm onto the upper wastegate pipe to support it.

I might try to get the new 280 hp rated clutch in with the aluminum flywheels this week after work this week.

I have been driving the red Suzuki Swift Sprint turbo and while it drives nice and it is quite my black GT out performs it in every conceivable way.

I also went to the dark side and helped buy a new car for my significant other (AWD ID4). It is quite and comfortable and she loves it. It will probably never be my cup of tea but that is not important.
 
I welded on a solid exhaust hanger with a poly bolt grommet spacer on the downpipe to one of the front engine bracket bolts. I have tried these before and they vibrated from pretty bad but it was in a different location way down stream. Here I'm going from the engine to turbo, and turbo out to downpipe and back to the engine. I have to have something solid from keeping the downpipe rotating forward and vibrating on the lower cross member. The direct vibration was putting pressure on the downpipe v-band to turbo, and the wastegate bolts that is ultimately mounted to the downpipe via two v-bands. The wastegate bolts backed out twice and the 3" v-band bolt started bending from the force. I also increased the size of the removable hanger bolts from 6 mm to 8 mm down stream. Those bolts snapped. Hopefully, with this setup I will have removed the vibrations causing things to go wrong with only a little vibration from the poly solid hanger.

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I'll grab some new pictures today. The ones above are before the parts were welded up last year.

I decided it is time to finally swap out clutches and flywheel. I removed the the transmission and CenterForce dual friction clutch and stock flywheel yesterday. Definitely, had some heat marks on the flywheel. Clutch disc was still useable but not great. I was having to baby the clutch in 4th and 5th gear and I could feel it slipping if I hit the accelerator to hard. I knew that if I drove on this clutch too much longer it would just get destroyed. I'll take photos side by side to compare the Centerforce Dual Friction with the Spec 3+ clutch. I am also finally installing the Aasco aluminum flywheel.
 
That is an interesting poly bolt grommet spacer ;-)
Any links on where to order those?
Ceep up the nice work.
 
Walt said:
That is an interesting poly bolt grommet spacer ;-)
Any links on where to order those?
Ceep up the nice work.
Click to expand...

That particular one I bought off Summit Racing, but I pretty sure there are several manufactures.
 
I have the Spec 3 + clutch in with the aluminum flywheel and the transmission is back on with the mounts. I replaced the rear seal and gasket. I also replaced the rear engine mount back to a new stock mount. At some point I will give them another go with a red or yellow duro (50 or 60 I think). The purple was way to harsh. I have been driving the Swift/Sprint/turbo for the last month. It is not a bad little car, but it is lacking in handling and horsepower. I hopefully will sneak a little shop time this weekend to finish getting everything back together.
 
I just have the radiator, battery, and wastegate to install. I should have her back up tomorrow. I am excited to run her with the new clutch and aluminum flywheel. I'm pretty sure my new exhaust hanger will help keep the downpipe from sliding forward with no rubbing. I also install a nice heat blanket around the turbo.
 
GT4LIFE said:
I just have the radiator, battery, and wastegate to install. I should have her back up tomorrow. I am excited to run her with the new clutch and aluminum flywheel. I'm pretty sure my new exhaust hanger will help keep the downpipe from sliding forward with no rubbing. I also install a nice heat blanket around the turbo.
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That sounds like really great up dates ;-)
Keep up the good work.
 
Running. I haven't done the test drive yet. I had a check engine solid light. I quickly tracked down a temperature sensor wire that had broken. Back to the shop. I should be able to take out the connector and solder a new wire onto the connector. I might have to wait to tomorrow.
 
I fixed the electrical connector for the engine temperature and took it for another test drive. I found a small leak on the wastegate coolant. I didn't have a chance to get to it all week. It should be an easy fix of either more teflon tape, or centering a crush washer and tightening down. Then I have 500 miles of break in driving before I can really test out the clutch. I can tell from the quick test drive that the aluminum flywheel is going to be a true joy. With the sound of the ball bearing turbo and the lightness of the drive train there is such smoothness to the two even under mild driving manners. The vibration from the rear engine mount is gone since moving back to new stock engine mounts. I'll revisit the idea of switching to either the red or even yellow solid duro poly mounts in the near future. I won't know for sure if my new down pipe poly hanger mount is going to solve the downpipe/wastegate issue until I put some actual high speed torque pulls into the works. For now no rubbing.
 
nwgeo said:
I have one of those AL flywheels have not installed it yet, good to hear a good report. :)
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Yeah. I was a little worried that it would be too light. There is a little bit of getting use to commute traffic, but after a week of driving it I don't even notice the difference of the slow speed start and stop action. I'm also trying to keep her to reasonable normal driving during the 500 mile clutch break in. At speed the feel of it is great. The acceleration feels a lot faster. I'll report back on it after 500 miles when I can put some hp and torque into it.

So far the Spec 3 + clutch (the carbon semi-metallic double sprung clutch; rated at 280 lbs of torque) is shifting smoother then a stock clutch. They have an extensive pdf listing for all their clutches listing of torque. This means they actually tested these things. I can't wait to give it a go at full speed.
 
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