The install seems simple enough. I already have the o2 bung welded in and installed 24" down stream from the turbo but positioned before the cat. The directions also indicates to put the bung between 9 and 3 o'clock positions to avoid condensation. Mine is at the 1:30 position. The threads are the same as the stock o2 bung. It was a tight fit with my exhaust hanger that sits in the stock position next to the steering rack just clear of the fire wall. I'll post up a finished picture of that piece and the sensor installed when I get a chance. The cable comes in two piece and plugs into each other and plugs directly into the controller. I will run this through the main ECU wiring harness grommet.
The controller I think I will place behind one of the extra switch blanks. I think it is far enough away from the ignition and far enough away from the speaker (the directions warn about placement next to radio frequency or Electromagnetic interference). I'll place the wiring in a separate sheath and run it with the main harness coming in and over.
The Innovate DB Digital Air/Fuel Gauge (blue) will go on a three pod pillar that I had already test fitted to make sure it does fit. It is from a Volkswagen Gulf; still available online. I'm thinking about trying to plastic weld some of the stock pillar mounts to the three pod to fit as O.E.M. If not some double stick mounting tap or some small metal screws into the column itself (edit, it screws to the stock pillar cover). The other two slots will be my boost gauge, and electronic oil pressure sensor. I still have to figure out how the gauge will actually mount into the pillar pod. Hopefully, this will not be hard.
Both black grounds from the controller and the gauge I will simply run them to the ground on the lower left of the fuse link. They need to be the same source for the ground according to the directions of the gauge.
The red power wires need to be switched power which I think I will splice into the ignition power lead before the fuse link and put two 5 amp fuse holders right there next to the fuse link for convenience. One will go to the controller and one to the gauge. The directions suggest using a relay, but that to me seems to complicate the wiring when the controller is only pulling 5 amps tops and I would have to still tie into the ignition power.
The DB gauge's white wire is the signal input from the wide-band controller. The gauge is setup to work with an analog output configuration of 0v = 7.35 A/F and 5v = 22.39 A/F. Connect the DB gauge's white wire to the LC-2's yellow wire. The LC-2 has another brown wire that the default output is 1.1v = 14 A/F and .1v = 15 A/F and I will not be using this until I go to a standalone. The directions list that the previous LC-1 uses the brown wire.
For illumination dimming option connect the DB gauge's yellow wire to a headlight power wire (a wire that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the display to dim for better nighttime viewing. Do not connect this wire to the headlight dimming wire! Since our headlights work on a ground switched circuit and power is direct to the headlights I am contemplating using the power from the tail lights witch is switched and is powered. If you choose not to utilized the dimming feature, connect the yellow wire to ground.
The only thing I need to do now is track down the wire for the ignition power into the fuse link and the wire for power out from the fused link for the tail lights. I'm doing this write up mostly so when I cannot find the directions I don't have go searching for it down the road, and it might help make the install more simple for our platform for others.
The controller I think I will place behind one of the extra switch blanks. I think it is far enough away from the ignition and far enough away from the speaker (the directions warn about placement next to radio frequency or Electromagnetic interference). I'll place the wiring in a separate sheath and run it with the main harness coming in and over.
The Innovate DB Digital Air/Fuel Gauge (blue) will go on a three pod pillar that I had already test fitted to make sure it does fit. It is from a Volkswagen Gulf; still available online. I'm thinking about trying to plastic weld some of the stock pillar mounts to the three pod to fit as O.E.M. If not some double stick mounting tap or some small metal screws into the column itself (edit, it screws to the stock pillar cover). The other two slots will be my boost gauge, and electronic oil pressure sensor. I still have to figure out how the gauge will actually mount into the pillar pod. Hopefully, this will not be hard.
Both black grounds from the controller and the gauge I will simply run them to the ground on the lower left of the fuse link. They need to be the same source for the ground according to the directions of the gauge.
The red power wires need to be switched power which I think I will splice into the ignition power lead before the fuse link and put two 5 amp fuse holders right there next to the fuse link for convenience. One will go to the controller and one to the gauge. The directions suggest using a relay, but that to me seems to complicate the wiring when the controller is only pulling 5 amps tops and I would have to still tie into the ignition power.
The DB gauge's white wire is the signal input from the wide-band controller. The gauge is setup to work with an analog output configuration of 0v = 7.35 A/F and 5v = 22.39 A/F. Connect the DB gauge's white wire to the LC-2's yellow wire. The LC-2 has another brown wire that the default output is 1.1v = 14 A/F and .1v = 15 A/F and I will not be using this until I go to a standalone. The directions list that the previous LC-1 uses the brown wire.
For illumination dimming option connect the DB gauge's yellow wire to a headlight power wire (a wire that supplies current to the headlights). This enables the display to dim for better nighttime viewing. Do not connect this wire to the headlight dimming wire! Since our headlights work on a ground switched circuit and power is direct to the headlights I am contemplating using the power from the tail lights witch is switched and is powered. If you choose not to utilized the dimming feature, connect the yellow wire to ground.
The only thing I need to do now is track down the wire for the ignition power into the fuse link and the wire for power out from the fused link for the tail lights. I'm doing this write up mostly so when I cannot find the directions I don't have go searching for it down the road, and it might help make the install more simple for our platform for others.
