pontiac truck

had a heater hose blow out on the highway. son towed me home with his metro. replaced both heater core hoses and new coolant (again)
 
blew out a crank seal on the way to work friday. almost no oil in engine- yikes-

and it was -36 .
fixed the car at work, boss let me put it inside where it was warmer, wife brought the parts to town, changed cam & crank seals, installed new timing belt while in there ( oil soaked)

its -42 right now. cars are in the shop with the furnace on. need to change alternator belts on both cars. want to do a heater core flush on the kids car.

rad is leaking on russell, at the crimps on the plastic tank- ordered a polished all aluminum tig welded 2 core rad for the replacement.
also ordered a bunch of parts from rockauto, that were on close-out sale prices. a bunch of parts.
 
sanded and polished the headlamps on russel.
changed the hard, not flexible alt belt. new dayco installed.
pressure tested cooling system- only dropped 1 lb in an hour- no external leaks...?


before polish-
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after polished...
IMG_2423.JPG

it was -42*c outside. might as well take my time and make those headlamps clear again !!

Today? a few minor things. loose headlamp, and mystery rattle behind fender- need to remove tires and fender liners , to diagnose / repair.
should be slightly warmer today, like -32*c right now- might get to -21* c later today-
 
That is too cold. It is always one thing or another. I hate when you have everything apart in same location and then put it back together only to have something next to it go out that would have been easy to get to then.
 
water pump is leaking- but waiting on new rad to arrive, as well as rad hoses and the other small coolant hoses for the turbo / intake.
ordered silicone hose for the small hoses, and no- mar hose clamps.
some parts have arrived from rock auto-
change everything at the same time- hoses, rad and water pump. will back-flush the heater core and cooling system before installing new parts.

whiteline bushings arrived for the rear control arms- so its time to plate a set of rear lca's , to help protect them from the gravel road rash i get from living 4 miles on gravel, from the highway-its amazing how damaging gravel is. might have some 16 or 14 ga steel for that job. i have new oem style tracking/ control rods, but debating if i should build a pair with heim joint style ends- i do have an aluminum pair with worn out ends....hmmm
might grab a turbine tech lower frame brace from one of the verts that i dont drive , and install it onto this ''car''

or take the brace to my buddy, and see what he would charge me, to duplicate it in aluminum. a steel one is a waste of time and weight, in my opinion.
 
Whow -42°C that must be grazy to be outside.
Does the engine get up to temperature with that outside temperature!
Ceep up all the great work (y)
 
Whow -42°C that must be grazy to be outside.
Does the engine get up to temperature with that outside temperature!
Ceep up all the great work (y)
if parked inside, its not to bad for the engine to stay at or near operating temp- but i do have cardboard blocking the majority of the rad, there is only about 2 maybe 3 inches at the top of the rad exposed.

if parked outside, and plugged in, it starts easily, but will not heat up to operating temps until driven. it can idle for 20 minutes or more, and the temp will only be at 1/4 on the gauge...
and i dont run the heater motor on full until the engine is fully warmed up- the heater sucks alot of heat out of the engine when at idle (and voltage at low temps)-
my sons car has better heater output than this vehicle.
russel will get a proper heater core / coolant flush when the rad / water pump are replaced. every time i do a flush ( i try for a rad flush once a year ) its amazing how much garbage comes out. and how much better the heater / cooling system works.
 
Thank you for your reply Blueturbofly.
You used to run a yellow top battery.
Do you just use a stock alternator with that?
Just asking, I am plannig a trip to the Nordkapp in Norway.
Might be a bitt colder then here in the Netherlands.
 
flushed cooling system / heater core, new aluminum rad. new water pump- ( was leaking from the weep hole)- all new rad / coolant hoses . new pcv hoses (found a small hole in one )
new , proper fitting BANDO timing belt, new shell nitrate free / silica free coolant-
more parts arriving, like gauges and a 3 hole pillar pod mount-

installed 4 new winter tires-$600!!!
IMG_2434.JPGIMG_2435.JPG
 
installed the proper turbo throttle cable. no more excess play now. did a compression test. changed the stereo. cleaned the glass & interior. check & adjust tire pressures.
now onto the rear lca's. i have whiteline bushings and new toe bars on hand...
 
car is running odd at higher rpm / load-when i launch hard, it pulls great up until 4500 rpm? then cuts out dead flat, then cuts back in, bucks really bad, then shift, and its great until 4500? rpm again, it bucks, so i shift, and it has great power until 4500? rpm-

its hit and miss. two weeks ago i launched hard and it went nice, 5000+ rpm per gear, 8 lbs boost, no cutting out- it ran hard and blew the doors off the unsuspecting z24 beside me....

no engine codes. will do some fsm diagnostics- last time i had a similar issue with the wifes turbo car, it was the module inside the dizzy-

started on the rear lower control arms- cut out the sheet steel , to box in the open areas of the lca's, to try and keep road debris from destroying the suspension components. but then a buddy showed up, and i we wound up talking shop over beers instead of me working on the car- oh well...

wife tried mocking up the pillar pod gauge mount, and it doesnt want to fit properly, or at least look decent,- may have to look for different gauge mounts... but i have the gauges on hand-

so far impressed with this *unknown* engine-has hardly used any oil, and the compression has come back nicely, as compared to when my son did the first compression test. trans shifts good as well.
 
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