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By GT4LIFE
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#11135
I just have a few things to wrap up before she is back on the road. Today I got the larger brake booster on from from the 1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara. It barely fits. 8.79″ vs. 6.60″ I had to press in on the brake booster where it the clutch cable comes through, and gently maneuver the brake lines into place.
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By Walt
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#11136
Do you have any pictures?
I have been thinking about this for a while.
A bigger booster would give more braking power with less effort :-)
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By GT4LIFE
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#11140
I’m switching to a bigger brake booster because I’m running substantially bigger front and soon rear brake disks, pads, and larger surface area of the pistons. The ratio between master cylinder and brake caliper piston will remain the same by only increasing the brake booster. I can take pictures when I get a chance. I think the best method would be purchase an additional clutch pedal cable and simply bend the outlet further toward the driver side in a vice. I won’t know if in my haste if I messed up my the Vitara Grand brake booster until I power up the car and have the system fully bled. I’ll find out soon.
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By GT4LIFE
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#11219
Walt wrote: Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:05 am

Do you have any pictures?
I have been thinking about this for a while.
A bigger booster would give more braking power with less effort :-)

The brake booster was non-functional. It is possible that the adjustment was just off or when I made a slight alteration to the outside casing that it damaged the diaphragm seat inside. Without a specific tool you end up measuring to the end of inside of the master cylinder and then subtract the measurement back to the flange. Then measure from the flange of the power booster to the adjustable rod inside. Substracting the the first measurement from this power booster measurement should equal zero. The FSM describes specific tools to do theses measurements which of course I don’t have. After I pulled the Vitara Grand booster back off I compared it to the Swift power booster and it was off by 3/16″. I had no more time to waste and I threw back on the Swift power booster and bled the brakes again. Now either I didn’t get all the air out, or the master cylinder is failing. With the Grand Vitara booster there was an extremely long brake with nothing to the end, but at the end the brakes would completely lock up.

I have started back up the engine, and it sounds healthy but the solid mounts are pretty raw. I’ll live with them for now but would not recommend for daily drivers. I will probably order a set of the lowest duro (I think red) and switch them out. I’ll switch to metal crush tubes when I do to rule that out.
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By GT4LIFE
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#11225
I ordered up a new master cylinder after bleeding the brakes again. It marginally improved but still wasn’t satisfactory. I was hoping that power brake booster would add additional force to the piston travel, but I think it more or less just shortens the brake pedal stroke but won’t allow the stroke to continue with more force to the master cylinder piston. If you like the travel of your brake pedal with the stock power booster then there is no need to enlarger the power brake booster. Although the larger Vitara Grand booster in all probability wasn’t working right it did pull a substantial amount of vacuum from the engine so much so that it idled the engine down about 500 rpms when I depressed the brake.

I had a headlight gremlin which turned out to be a fuse. I don’t think I ever realized that the fog lights shut off automatically when you turn on your high beams. It makes sense but when you are only getting headlights when you have the high beams and the fog activated you immediately think oh shit combination switch or fuse block. The root of the problem was that I got water on the HID relay when I missed the overfill tank. The relay is right below it. When I put a new fuse in the left headlights the HID relay smoked for a second and then dried up and continued working. Problem solved.

My freaking stainless steel flex 6″ 2 ½″ flex pipe rusted out during its summer nap. It might be accounting for a little bit of the raw sound experienced. I ordered up a new one off amazon that says it has the interior stainless mesh and outer and the connection bands are supposed to be stainless. Vibrant 60806.
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By GT4LIFE
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#11292
I got the Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08 R 205 50 R15 on tonight. They cleared the insides front and back and didn’t hit fully locked in the front. However I will need to roll the fenders in the front and back to prevent rubbing on corners. They’re barely wider then the 195 50 R15 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 but they’re noticeably taller. They certainly are a nice looking tire. I’ll take some pictures soon.

I’m waiting for my brake master cylinder and babied the car on the way to and from Discount Tires. They had a sale on labor day plus $60 mastercard that I need to send in for.

I got the new stainless steel 6″ flex pipe with the stainless braid on the inside that is supposed to be for forced induction. Amazon was $20 cheaper than anywhere else with free next day Prime delivery. I’ll try to get that welded in this weekend.
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