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By Walt
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#12380
Lucky you did not run dry on engine oil :crying:
Ceep up the good work :-D
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By GT4LIFE
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#12384
Walt wrote:

Lucky you did not run dry on engine oil :crying:
Ceep up the good work :-D

Very lucky. I had her back up on the road to and from work (100 miles) and nothing seemed to be wrong. I’m ordering up the hose and fitting for the sender and found a mount off another parts car on hand. There should be no stress on it with a hose and fender wall mount. I’m trying to find a complete 24″ ptfe hose with fittings. I found the autometer 36″ one but the length is just too long.

I had a lurking Ford Focus ST that I was just waiting to fly by, but didn’t get a chance. What he didn’t realize is with his 250 hp and 3500 curb weight that I’m only about 25 hp less and about 1500 lbs lighter.
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By GT4LIFE
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#12396
I put down the dynomat and test fitting the brand new carpet. Lots of cutting involved. The don’t make their cuts any where close to what it needs to be. The impression looks right though. I bought a dynpad also but I think the carpet with the mass backing will be good by itself. The dynpad is just too thick with the new carpet.

I also got the rear camera installed. That turned out to be more involved, but one less thing to install. I had been putting this off for over two years. The cable was too short to run down the floor boards so I had to run it above. Talk about some narrow cable runs in the hatch. I used a chunk of ground rod to pull the wire through. I even had to lube the wires down with a non petroleum based grease. It would not have gone through without.

I also fixed a crack in the right rear trim directly behind the right side door. I used a cheap plastic welder and was pretty surprised with what I was able to do.
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By GT4LIFE
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#12498
I got the carpet in, but still haven’t got the passenger seat in. The thicker carpet made it a pain to bolt down the seats. No pictures yet. The dyna pad is out. Way too thick with just the carpet and dynamax. The carpet looks pretty nice. I only made two small error cuts for the rear seat. Some how it was way too far forward. I’ll fit in the cut out and glue it back in.
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By GT4LIFE
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#12633
I got to get some pictures of the interior. It came out pretty nice. I got in today the Aasco ligtht weight aluminum flywheel. Rough weigh in at 6.4 lbs. Lighter then I was thinking. I’m planning on getting a Spec 3+ clutch to go with. The Centerforce dual friction clutch doesn’t hold above 14 psi with my setup and I have to feather the throttle at that point. The Spec 3+ clutch should hold up to 280 hp. I also think the Centerforce clutch with the weights rattles to sh*t at high enough rpms.

SPEC Clutch Stage 3+ The flagship stage for a high powered street or race car that requires a manageable and friendly engagement, the stage 3+ features a carbon semi-metallic full faced material that offers unparalleled life, friction co-efficient and drivability characteristics in one single package. The sprung hub (application dependent) version is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, drift, autocross, road racing, pulling, rallye and drift. Some applications require a solid hub based on the vehicles flywheel setup.

SPEC Maximum Torque Recommendations (Measured at the Flywheel):

Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 2+ Stage 3 Stage 3+ Stage 4 Stage 5
Kit Part Number: SC001 SC002 n/a SC003 SC003F SC004 n/a
Torque Capacity: 150 190 240 280 240

Stage 3+: Street, Drag, Pulling, Autocross

The flagship stage for a high powered street or race car that requires a manageable and friendly engagement, the stage 3+ features a carbon semi-metallic full faced material that offers unparalleled life, friction co-efficient and drivability characteristics in one single package. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, drift, autocross, road racing, pulling, rallye and drift.

This article provided me with my choice for clutch:

https://www.streetmusclemag.com/news/cl ... -weigh-in/
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By GT4LIFE
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#12641
I was having some hesitation on the way home and it got me super nervous about possibly having damaged the engine when the oil sensor broke off. I did a quick compression check and the numbers are exactly where they were year and ½ ago. 165 all the way across. Remember these are lower compression 75 mm Vitara pistons with NPR rings.

I did find that I left the clamp on the hose for the idle bypass off. I’ll see if that gets rid of the hesitation. Otherwise I might have some manifold bolts loosening up either in between the turbo and the t3 flange or even the exhaust manifold itself.

I finally got the parts for the oil hose line for the remote mount for the oil pressure sender. I will hopefully get that installed this weekend.
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By DrelvisGTi
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#12645
Hi Mate,

Thanks for writing such an enjoyable thread!

Great news with the engine compression after running low on oil too!

I hope I don’t sound like ‘Nervous Nancy’ but how well did your turbo handle the sudden oil loss? Still spinning freely (?)

Hoping everything is still O.K and sending positive thoughts your way!


Cheers,

Drew
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By GT4LIFE
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#12647
Turbo is fine. It was the stupid idle bypass air hose; I forgot to slide the clamp back on after I tightened up the alternator belt the week before. It ran pretty good today. I want to upgrade the turbo here shortly since the IHI VJ11 RHB5200 is a pretty old design. The turbo itself was a band new replacement for $120. The inner seal on the thing weeps and makes a mess, but the unit has been pretty reliable. They’re float bearing turbos which really is just bushings with holes in them.
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By GT4LIFE
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#12659
I got the oil pressure sender back up and running with a remote mount on the passenger side fender frame rail .

Lesson learned don’t mount your pressure sender on the engine especially not with a 90 degree fitting.

I used a fully complete PTFE 3AN hose:

AMS Performance AMS.01.04.0104-1 - AMS Performance Remote Oil Pressure Sending Unit Lines

One end of hose line is a swivel 4 AN 90 degree, and the other end is a female ⅛ -27 NPT. From center line of 90 degree bend to the other end of the hose line is approximately 15 9/16″. From the center of the 90 degree bend to the end of fitting is approximately 1″. The fitting is a 4AN to ⅜″ NPT not a 4AN to ⅛″ NPT. I had to order up a ⅛″ npt to 4 AN fitting. The hose line itself is 3AN great quality; good quality aluminum ends, good crimps, and a nice quality covering sheath over stainless hose. The bend feels like it is PTFE but I cannot visually verify. The price went up 40% after I order this one. To be fair a lot of car parts across the board did the same thing. Happy New Years. This part fit nicely with the distance to the passenger side fender wall (it is mounted on the flat fender frame rail ridge across from the crank pully).

Image
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By GT4LIFE
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#12665
My turbo is fine, but I’m pretty damn sure I cracked the ram horn manifold again or the adapter plate between the T3 flange and the IHI RHB5200 flange has blown out. This weekend I will fabricate another lower mount (the one I last made snapped in ½ and last week I noticed my forward most exhaust hanger broke.) There is too much weight on the whole setup and it does protrude out from the exhaust flange pretty far. I’m hoping with a new improved thicker lower flange that I can limp by to work until spring break. I’m ordering up a cast manifold. I’m hoping to get some measurements first, but if I cannot I’ll take a chance. I’m pretty damn certain I will have modify exhaust downpipe once again unless I’m seriously lucky. The cast one is still a T3.
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