Yikes! That sounds like a really fun surprise! Glad you are ok!
92 Black GT
- Thread starter GT4LIFE
- Start date
A little more investigation and I'm convinced that the new PCV system created enough back pressure on the crankcase blow by that it took an easier route which is the front seal of the turbo ( I had both the catch can with 40 micron filter + oil baffle, and the oil separator (essentially stranded stainless steel mesh creating back pressure). As far as I can tell the front seal of the turbo that I have is a floating ring. It has only so much tolerance for pressure. The oil inlet on this turbo is around 1/32". Tiny. It doesn't use much oil for ceramic ball bearing CHRA. Instead of the blow by going up into the head, and out the PCV system and back into the intake it said nope turbo oil drain tube is a way easier route then around the floating ring.
Solution: I will take off the 2nd catch can and leave just the oil air separator. I'll cap the intake port and put the same filter I used on the breather side. Upon reading online it is a good idea to have the hose leaving the PCV port on the valve cover going vertically up to the air oil separator. If any gas/steam oil cools while in route to the air separator the idea is that it drains back to the valve cover as liquid. I think long term I should weld a 10 or 12 an fitting onto the valve cover and run this to the 2nd catch can then put the filter on that. Then I would return the oil separator to the intake port. I will only do this if I don't like where my oil pressure is sitting at idle. I won't know until I try it for result. Now, I just need to clean everything down and try the first solution.
Real long term solution: replace rings and switch from a .013" top oil ring gap to a .011", and make the 2nd .013".
Solution: I will take off the 2nd catch can and leave just the oil air separator. I'll cap the intake port and put the same filter I used on the breather side. Upon reading online it is a good idea to have the hose leaving the PCV port on the valve cover going vertically up to the air oil separator. If any gas/steam oil cools while in route to the air separator the idea is that it drains back to the valve cover as liquid. I think long term I should weld a 10 or 12 an fitting onto the valve cover and run this to the 2nd catch can then put the filter on that. Then I would return the oil separator to the intake port. I will only do this if I don't like where my oil pressure is sitting at idle. I won't know until I try it for result. Now, I just need to clean everything down and try the first solution.
Real long term solution: replace rings and switch from a .013" top oil ring gap to a .011", and make the 2nd .013".
I cleaned everything down and routed the PCV port up hill to just the oil separator and then a large filter attaches just on the other side of the separator. No pcv valve and the intake port will be blocked. I was looking at where to put an additional valve cover port, and really it needs to go through the baffle in the valve cover. If this current setup is not enough welding the additional port will be a little bit challenging since it will need to get welded on the out side, and inside of the baffle. Another option might just be making the primary PCV port a 12 AN port.
I decided to make the primary PCV port a 12 AN fitting. I'll have to wait until next Monday to have my friend aluminum weld on the fitting. I have it prepped already. From the fitting I will go to a 12 AN 90 fitting with 12 AN hose all the way to the oil separator. I plan on tapping the oil separator inlet and outlet port from 1/4" npt to 1/2" npt. This should remove the blow by problem and the pressure on the turbo seals.
I ended up tapping the valve cover to 1/2" npt instead of welding on. I got all the fittings and hose in now, and I'm just waiting for the weekend and for a nasty cold to go away. I already prepped the spot to weld before realizing how easy it is to tap the valve cover to 1/2" NPT. I will just touch up the valve cover next to the fitting out with the same color enamel. The fittings go from 1/2" npt to 12 AN, immediately to a 90 degree 12 AN, 12 AN hose to 12AN to 1/2 NPT into the oil separator. I tapped and threaded both ends of the oil separator from 3/8" npt to 1/2" NPT. The Filter ends up in the pocket behind the driverside strut mount matching the breather filter on the other side.
She is back up and working well. To soon to see if I get any oil going through the turbo, but I'm pretty confident I have solved that problem. When I first got her back together I was experiencing some hesitation and bucking. I sprayed out the MAF with MAF cleaner and cleaned the distributor points along with advancing the distributor just a hair and now she is running great!
Pictures of new breather and PCV vent system:
She is running excellent; knock on wood. I'm hoping to give her a good scrub down and shine today. If I have time install a new radio that I bought almost a year ago.
She is running excellent; knock on wood. I'm hoping to give her a good scrub down and shine today. If I have time install a new radio that I bought almost a year ago.
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Brand new type R Volkswagen golf 2024 could not catch me and I put a few car lengths ahead of him. Not from a stand still. That is 315 hp. I wasn't loosing him, but he couldn't pull even. This on a straight away. That is a good indicator where she is at. No knock, but I'm probably starting to lean out. She ran great. I have a aftermarket fuel rail on the way from Auz and that should allow me to go a little richer (not much) at WOT with an aftermarket 1:1 fuel pressure regulator. I would like to bump the boost up 1 to 2 clicks to sit somewhere over 250 hp. Anything above this will require me go standalone and larger fuel injectors. I really don't want to go larger fuel injectors, but I would like to see if there is a little wiggle room in the fuel economy. I could see her getting 34 mpg at that hp.
To Do List:
1. fuel rail (should be here soon)
2. fuel pressure regulator 1:1
3. make front carbon fiber splitter/front spoiler
4. paint
5. solder up mega squirt II (I'm reading up more on pros and cons of full sequential vs multiport/batch injection).
6. need to purchase fuel pressure regulator (the different brands seem to be all about the same), found one that I like on Summit Racing
7. purchase COP
8. still looking for trigger wheel for crank, I might just buy one off DIYautotune and cut/drill current undersized aluminum crank pulley to fit.
9. purchase crank sensor and make mounting adapter.
It is my understanding that full sequential would require both crank positioning and cam positioning (modifying distributor also). I need to fully look into this; I do have spare distributors.
1. fuel rail (should be here soon)
2. fuel pressure regulator 1:1
3. make front carbon fiber splitter/front spoiler
4. paint
5. solder up mega squirt II (I'm reading up more on pros and cons of full sequential vs multiport/batch injection).
6. need to purchase fuel pressure regulator (the different brands seem to be all about the same), found one that I like on Summit Racing
7. purchase COP
8. still looking for trigger wheel for crank, I might just buy one off DIYautotune and cut/drill current undersized aluminum crank pulley to fit.
9. purchase crank sensor and make mounting adapter.
It is my understanding that full sequential would require both crank positioning and cam positioning (modifying distributor also). I need to fully look into this; I do have spare distributors.
I bought some used COP based off information that was posted from Teamswift:
https://tsarchive.suzukiswiftrepository.com/viewtopic.php-f=6&t=45505.html
"The part numbers for the COPs that I use are:
(Hitachi CM11-201)
(BERU ZSE 009)
(VW/Audi 06B 905 115)
The connectors are VAG part numbers:
Housing VAG 4B0 973 724 (alt 1J0 973 724),
Pins 000 979 141 (alt 000 979 133A alt 000 979 225A),
Rubber boot 6X0 971 921A
There is also some more info here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Ext ... htm#3coils under "VAG P/N 06B 905 115 COPs:"
I am using the setup under "Ground Switching
V3.0 PCB ONLY". As described in the text you might need to use another setup depending on the exact coil type that you find.
I run wasted spark with one 60-2 toothed wheel and a VR sensor on the crank. I had a few problems with noise on the VR sensor signal so if I were to redo it i would go for a Hall sensor instead, (and of course you need to fix the root cause for the noise too see noise problems below)."
The set of four I picked up was for a Volkswagen Beetle 1.8 Hitachi CM11-201 COP for cheap on Ebay.
I also picked up four plugs with pins and wires (easy to solder extension on)
Still need to pick up the rubber boots, but I will do that after I make sure what I got works.
I will have to make a plate adapter to bolt them down, or make individual grommet plugs that fit solid in the valve cover holes yet have small plates attached to the grommet where it can bolt to. Won't know until I test fit. It will be some time before I even get to this. I don't have a real rush here. However, I can get all the parts for running MSII before I ever start assembly.
https://tsarchive.suzukiswiftrepository.com/viewtopic.php-f=6&t=45505.html
"The part numbers for the COPs that I use are:
(Hitachi CM11-201)
(BERU ZSE 009)
(VW/Audi 06B 905 115)
The connectors are VAG part numbers:
Housing VAG 4B0 973 724 (alt 1J0 973 724),
Pins 000 979 141 (alt 000 979 133A alt 000 979 225A),
Rubber boot 6X0 971 921A
There is also some more info here http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Ext ... htm#3coils under "VAG P/N 06B 905 115 COPs:"
I am using the setup under "Ground Switching
V3.0 PCB ONLY". As described in the text you might need to use another setup depending on the exact coil type that you find.
I run wasted spark with one 60-2 toothed wheel and a VR sensor on the crank. I had a few problems with noise on the VR sensor signal so if I were to redo it i would go for a Hall sensor instead, (and of course you need to fix the root cause for the noise too see noise problems below)."
The set of four I picked up was for a Volkswagen Beetle 1.8 Hitachi CM11-201 COP for cheap on Ebay.
I also picked up four plugs with pins and wires (easy to solder extension on)
Still need to pick up the rubber boots, but I will do that after I make sure what I got works.
I will have to make a plate adapter to bolt them down, or make individual grommet plugs that fit solid in the valve cover holes yet have small plates attached to the grommet where it can bolt to. Won't know until I test fit. It will be some time before I even get to this. I don't have a real rush here. However, I can get all the parts for running MSII before I ever start assembly.
Of course when everything is running well the weakest link blows out a bearing. The transmission is going out. I ordered a rebuild kit, and think I will pay to have it rebuilt this time. I have a unit ready to ship to be rebuilt that is sitting in the shop. It could be the diff pin also. I will strip it down when I get a chance after swapping in the other unit after be rebuilt.
Transmission (last case I had pulled) is in transit to rebuilder. I managed to use a business Fedex account to ship and the cost was significantly less to ship. My personal quote was $374 while I got the shipping for $120 with business account. That surprised me. I have since removed the other transmission. There was a large amount of metal shaving when I drained the oil. I didn't see a bearing retainer drain out but this one needs a rebuild also. I will probably pull this one apart myself when I have time. For now I have ordered up some Royal Purple Synchromax transmission fluid for when the transmission returns. I'll pull the pressure plate and take a look at the flywheel. Throw out bearing looked just fine, but I probably will replace just because I try to be routine when pulling the transmission. I'm curious if anyone has had an aluminum flywheel surfaced (they are metal plates bolted in). Do they resurface the same way?
I pulled the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Interesting to note is that the pilot bearing just fell right out. It is possible that was a lot of my bearing sound. I wonder if I didn't full seat in the crank shaft depression hole. No damage. Clutch disc, pressure plate, and fly wheel looked good. However, as above I was looking into how surface the aluminum flywheel metal plates. I found that no you would have a hard time resurfacing the metal plates that are called by Aasco heat shields. One Aasco and Clutchmasters says don't and that you need to buy a new heat shield everytime you replace the clutch. Just for clarification Clutchmasters was working with Aasco to produce their aluminum flywheels, but they are no longer partner. The guy said Clutchmasters was outsourcing for their builds and they discontinued their partnership. I'm kind of glad I got an Aasco product and not a Clutchmasters.
I looked everywhere after finding the correct part number for the Aasco aluminum flywheel for our 1.3 Swift HS8050 but couldn't find the part online directly with Aasco or anywhere else. The heatshield is 8" on the outside and 5" on the inside and is 16 holes. I called Aasco and the parts guy added it to their online catalogue and gave me 10% off. I went ahead and ordered up one to have a fresh surface. I think the original one is useable; it was still flat with minimal heat marks.
I think it is possible to surface at a machine shop. The 3/4 socket head (allen head) screws are only recessed down about 1/64". I think there is still room to take up to a few thousands of inch off. The heat shield is level with the rest of the aluminum parts of the flywheel. With pins removed you could surface the entire flywheel. However, I don't think you would want to removed any of the flywheel aluminum surface. Therefore, two options: remove the heatshield and find a way to lock it down from the outside edge. The clutch disc does not cover the outer 1/4 of the heat shield surface. The other way I can see working is once you have a 2nd heatshield you put the first one below the 2nd one and use a standard flywheel grinder (not sure of the exact name). You would have to buy 16 10/32 socket head screws that are about 1" long to go through both heatshields. You can grind a little off the top end of each socket head screw to give more clearance if you need to take more off the surface. This won't effect anything since you are only using those longer screws to hold it down while grading the heatshield.
I looked everywhere after finding the correct part number for the Aasco aluminum flywheel for our 1.3 Swift HS8050 but couldn't find the part online directly with Aasco or anywhere else. The heatshield is 8" on the outside and 5" on the inside and is 16 holes. I called Aasco and the parts guy added it to their online catalogue and gave me 10% off. I went ahead and ordered up one to have a fresh surface. I think the original one is useable; it was still flat with minimal heat marks.
I think it is possible to surface at a machine shop. The 3/4 socket head (allen head) screws are only recessed down about 1/64". I think there is still room to take up to a few thousands of inch off. The heat shield is level with the rest of the aluminum parts of the flywheel. With pins removed you could surface the entire flywheel. However, I don't think you would want to removed any of the flywheel aluminum surface. Therefore, two options: remove the heatshield and find a way to lock it down from the outside edge. The clutch disc does not cover the outer 1/4 of the heat shield surface. The other way I can see working is once you have a 2nd heatshield you put the first one below the 2nd one and use a standard flywheel grinder (not sure of the exact name). You would have to buy 16 10/32 socket head screws that are about 1" long to go through both heatshields. You can grind a little off the top end of each socket head screw to give more clearance if you need to take more off the surface. This won't effect anything since you are only using those longer screws to hold it down while grading the heatshield.
Transmission is being rebuilt. This is the one I had put a solid diff pin on. Input shaft bearing was toast, and diff bearings were bad. Also put new seals and a new reverse gear. Should be on it way back early next week. I ordered up new pilot bearing and pressure release bearing even though the ones I pulled appeared fine. Start new is good insurance for not going back in there as soon.